Everything We’ve Learned About Making Incredible Pizza at Home
+ all the details from our most recent pizza party
Happy Monday, friends. My June cooking class will be uploaded today!
I’m going to start with a confession: pizza is my favorite food. Not just “oh I love pizza.” I mean my actual favorite food. Hubs too. We will absolutely rearrange our plans, drive an unreasonable distance, or stay up too late on a Tuesday for great pizza. It is one of the things we are most united on as a couple.
So naturally, making pizza at home became a whole thing for us. And over the years, we’ve gotten pretty good at it. I say “we,” but I should be honest. Hubs is the Head Pizzaiolo. He has done the deep dives, the research, the dough experiments. I am a very enthusiastic sous chef. This is a comfortable dynamic for both of us.
Here’s everything we’ve learned.
The Equipment That Changed Everything: The Pizza Oven
If you are serious about homemade pizza, a home pizza oven is a game changer. Full stop.
We originally bought an Ooni pizza oven (currently 23% off) through their Kickstarter campaign years ago, back when that felt like a gamble, and it has more than paid for itself. It still works beautifully. But we recently upgraded to a larger Ooni model and it is unbelievable. Crispier crust, faster cook, more room to work. We did also get the huge rotating turntable inside, which means you no longer have to turn the pie while it bakes, which can be a little tricky when your dealing with an oven blasting at upwards of 1000 degrees!
My dad had a massive custom wood-burning pizza oven built into his backyard. Beautiful. I think it cost somewhere between $10,000 and $15,000. And honestly? The Ooni gives us equally incredible results. It’s almost foolproof by comparison. I love my dad’s oven, but I love mine more.
A good pizza oven gets to 900°F and above, which is what creates that blistered, charred, Neapolitan-style crust you simply cannot replicate in a home oven. If you’ve been making pizza on a sheet pan at 450°F, you’re getting a different pizza. The only alternative that comes close in your kitchen is to cook the pizzas directly on a baking steel at the highest temperature in your oven, which does yield a very crispy crust and is excellent for NY style pizza. But if you want an authentic pizza that transports you to the Amalfi coast, a pizza oven like the Ooni is your best bet.
The Dough
Hubs has tested a lot of dough recipes. The one he keeps coming back to for NY style pizza is from The Dough Guy and it is worth looking up, especially because he offers a free dough calculator. The key is making it 2 to 3 days ahead. That cold ferment in the fridge develops flavor in a way that same-day dough simply cannot. It is the difference between “this is good pizza” and “how did we make this at home.”
If you want more of a traditional Neapolitan pizza, Hubs uses the recipe from Vito Iacopelli, which employs an easy dough starter called a poolish that you prepare the night before and yields a lighter, airy crust. Recipe below but you can also watch his video.
A few things Hubs has drilled into me about dough that I now consider non-negotiable:
Flour matters more than most people think. There are two main options: 00 flour and bread flour. 00 flour is finely milled Italian flour that creates that classic Neapolitan crust with the gorgeous leopard-spotted char. Bread flour has a higher protein content and gives you a chewier, sturdier crust, more New York-style. Neither is wrong. But knowing which one you want helps you shop correctly.
Take your dough out of the fridge at least two hours before you use it. Cold dough tears and fights you. Room temperature dough stretches beautifully and cooperates. This is such a simple fix and so many people skip it.
The leopard spotting is the goal. Those dark blistered spots on a well-made crust are not burning. They are the sign of a properly hot oven and good fermentation. If you are not getting them, your oven is not hot enough or your dough did not ferment long enough.
When we’re short on time or want something a little different, we also love buying fresh dough from Eataly. Their dough has this chewy, light, airy quality that is a bit different from Hubs’ version. Equally delicious, just a different character. Store-bought dough is a completely valid option. Seek it out from your local pizzeria.
The Sauce
We do not use marinara. We use crushed San Marzano tomatoes, jarred or canned, with just a drizzle of good olive oil and a pinch of salt. That is it. If you like, you can season it with a bit of basil or dried oregano to taste. San Marzano tomatoes are sweeter and less acidic than regular tomatoes and they do not need much help. Over-saucing weighs down the pizza. Keep it simple, keep it light.
The Cheese
We stopped buying pre-shredded mozzarella and it made a noticeable difference.
Pre-shredded cheese contains added cellulose to keep the shreds from clumping. That cellulose interferes with melting. Instead of getting that gorgeous, gooey, slightly browned mozzarella pull, you get a greasy, uneven, sometimes grainy melt.
Hubs bought a rotary cheese grater specifically for shredding mozzarella. It takes about two extra minutes and the difference in how the cheese melts on a screaming hot pizza is significant.
We also love fresh buffalo mozzarella, for the Neapolitan pies or even sprinkled onto a NY pie for texture. Hubs used to tear the mozzarella by hand, but the uneven pieces mean the cheese does not cook uniformly. Now he dices the mozzarella into little even squares … but here is the thing most people don’t know: you have to dry it first. Slice it, lay it on paper towels, and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes before dicing it up. The moisture content in fresh mozz is the number one reason home pizzas come out soggy.
The Part Nobody Talks About: The Peel
If you have a pizza oven, you have a peel, and if you’ve ever had a pizza stick to the peel mid-launch, you know the particular heartbreak of watching your beautiful pie fold in on itself. Who wants a calzone!
The fix is semolina flour, not regular flour. Regular flour absorbs moisture from the dough and turns gummy. Semolina acts like tiny ball bearings underneath the dough. The pizza glides right off cleanly. This is what the pros use and it is one of those tips that once you know it, you will never go back.
Hubs uses a wooden peel to launch the pies, and a thinner metal one to turn the pizza and to remove the finished masterpiece.
The Topping Rule
Less is more, and the order matters.
Most home cooks over-top their pizzas. A heavy pizza increases your the risk your pizza folds over on itself. It also may not cook evenly and the crust steams instead of crisps. The pros think in layers: on Neapolitan pizza it is sauce first, then a sprinkle of grated pecorino or parmesan if you have it, then the mozzarella cheese, then anything that needs heat like meat or vegetables. Delicate things like fresh herbs, arugula, or prosciutto go on after the pizza comes out of the oven. They are meant to wilt gently from the residual heat, not char under a 900-degree flame. One pro tip: if you do want to bake with a few torn basil leaves for that perfect margarita pizza, you can drizzle a couple of drops of olive oil on the leaves before baking to prevent burning the delicate herb.
With a NY style pizza you have more options when building the pizza. Hubs sometimes likes to lay the cheese directly on the stretched dough and then spoons the sauce over the cheese, before laying a few chunks of fresh mozzarella on top along with some grated pecorino, then any preferred toppings (the meatball ricotta pie is delish). With this type of build the cheese bubbles up from the sauce and creates a delicious soupy gooey topping.
There are a lot of good video tips on social media that can offer deeper dives into the all these processes, from the dough to launching the pizza. You can do a deep dive on exotic pies or just learn the basics!
The Pizza Party Format
We had friends over for a pizza party recently and I want to put it on record: the pizza party is peak casual entertaining. Everyone gathers around, there is something to watch and participate in, food comes out in waves so it never feels overwhelming, and the whole thing has this relaxed, interactive energy that I absolutely love. It is my vibe completely.
I always keep notes on my entertaining events. Years of doing this will teach you to write things down. I pulled up my notes from last year’s pizza parties and basically recreated the same menu. When something works, don’t overthink it.
I appreciate those of you who choose to support my substack with a paid subscription and I am sharing exact downloadable recipes for everything with you at the bottom of the post. Here’s what we made:
The Menu
Snacks to start: White Bean Hummus, Crackers and Crudites, Pistachios, Chunks of Parmesan, Olive Oil Potato Chips
The Pizzas:
Classic Margherita (crushed San Marzano tomatoes + olive oil and salt - that’s the sauce plus fresh mozzarella and basil to finish)
Nerano (zucchini sauce, cheese and fried zucchini slices)
Roasted eggplant with smoked mozzarella and San Marzano sauce
White pizza with lemon zest, lemon wedges and hot chili oil on the side
Alongside the pizzas: dried Sicilian oregano, crushed red pepper, hot chili oil
Meatballs
Chopped Italian Salad with Oregano Vinaigrette
To drink: Amaro Angeleno Negronis (1 part each Gin, Sweet Vermouth and sub Amaro Angeleno for the Campari + a twist of orange peel)
Plus a full bar with fresh juices and mixers
To finish: Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie (Hubs made it!), Vanilla Ice Cream, Fresh Berries
Decor (anything I didn’t link is vintage or handmade)
Peonies from Trader Joe’s. Acrylic cocktail napkin holder. Cocktail napkins. Mini bamboo tongs.
I used this tablecloth and napkins from Solino Home. Rinsed out the tomato cans and stuck basil plants from Trader Joe’s for decor plus bowls of cherry tomatoes. Basic white plates (i’ve had these for 20 years and not a single chip), placemats in white, cane tumblers, votives I buy in bulk
Gratin dish for meatballs, wood bowl for salad, oblong platter for salad, potato chip bowl
I love a deal and I love searching for deals…..Here’s what I found this week:
TKEES gave me a discount code PAMELA10 for 10% off. These are my go-to flip-flops for a decade. I have a silly number of pairs, but they’re comfortable, affordable, and they look good with a bathing suit at the beach or with a skirt to go to lunch. Black, burgundy, red, nude, navy (color is no longer available in this specific style), ankle tie. And I have more at my mom’s house and in the desert. LOL
The Cumulus Cold Brew Machine is 20% off for one day! (25% off with a coffee subscription)
J Crew sale is still going strong with an extra 20% off your $200+ purchase with code ADDTOCART. I need shorts, how about you? These are a great length and good colors are on sale. I truly cannot stop thinking about this Khaite clutch. I wish I could unsee it. It’s $1990 and I’m not going to do it. Nope. This J. Crew clutch is $115 +additional % off and I think it’s adorable. This is a cute polka dot number for travels or bridal showers.
This Week on Instagram and the Links You Asked For…
Hubs and I out and about. Our sunglasses from Warby Parker: Mine and Hubs is wearing the “Major,” not found online, but in store. This style is almost identical. This is my sweater and suede bucket bag.
He also just got these Warby Parker sport glasses and he cannot stop talking about how excellent they are - they’re light and don’t budge. I am going to add them to my Father’s Day gift guide (coming soon.)
Went to Truly Pizza in Laguna which was AMAZING. Wore these white jeans, favorite white t-shirt, cozy grey cashmere sweater (it’s White and Warren and I love it. This is the Quince dupe if you size down. It is not quite as thick and soft but close enough and it’s 1/3 of the price - great if you don’t want to spend the $ on W&W), red sweater and these sandals (code PAMELA10). All jewelry is old.
White leather thong sandals (comfy and current)
My daughter Anna is Ballerina Farm’s #1 fan. She visited the actual farm last time she was in Utah and brought us back a huge sampling of goods - protein powder, jerky, and soap. I will admit, their products are very, very good. Recently tried their Electrolyte Powder and it’s Pamela-approved. No sugar, plus organic coconut water, hand-harvested French sea salt, and Irish sea moss for a natural boost of minerals and electrolytes. Tastes great too and good for summer. These individual packets are perfect for a gym bag and travel.
Wore this shirt in the new BBQ sauce reel. Very nice weight for spring/summer.
I promised I would share some bathing suit picks. I love Left on Friday (Pamela Ellison also brought them up in the comment section last week.) New brand for me, but I needed new suits and they are very comfortable, well constructed (I do not cheap out with bathing suits) and have a style for every body type. Here’s the black one (the straps can actually be worn several different ways) and the slate blue one. I am going to order this high rise bottom and this top. Too many great colors to choose from!
Over the Left on Friday black suit, wearing these Spanx linen shorts (I love pockets) and matching button down which I can also wear with jeans, and these flip-flops.
My Substack is basically where I share everything I’d tell my girlfriends if we were standing in my kitchen together. Yes, there are recipes, but it’s also what I’m loving, what I’m buying, what I’ve researched so you don’t have to, the products that are actually worth it, the little things making my life easier, and the conversations we’re all having about food, wellness, entertaining, and life. It’s practical, personal, and meant to help make your life feel a little simpler and more delicious. It’s $5/month or $50/year, and I’d love to have you there. I offer a little extra to my paid subscribers and this week I am sharing all the recipes in one spot for this pizza night!
